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 The
moth or phalaenopsis orchid is the one best adapted to your home
environment, making it the easiest to grow. It thrives in the same
temperatures as people with night temperatures in the 60s and 70 to
80 degrees during the day. However, avoid hot and cold air drafts
that can stress the plants and cause bud and flower drop.
Moth orchids are epiphytes, growing on but not parasitizing trees
and other plants. They obtain water and nutrients from the air,
rainwater, and plant debris that accumulate in their environment.
They can be mounted on a board but usually are grown in an orchid
mix made of peat, fir bark, and perlite. This or a similar
combination retains water while providing needed drainage.
Place your plant in a bright location near an east-, west- or
slightly shaded south-facing window. Your orchid will do best when
it receives 12 to 14 hours of sunlight daily. Enlist the help of
artificial lights if your orchids are struggling when natural light,
especially during winter, is insufficient. Newer full-spectrum LED
lights are more affordable, require less energy, and are longer
lasting than the grow lights of the past.
Give your orchid a good watering about once a week with room
temperature water just as the planting mix starts to dry. Pour off
any excess water that collects in the saucer. Don’t allow orchids to
sit in water and don’t water too often as this can lead to root rot
and death of your plant.
Fertilize actively growing and flowering plants every third or
fourth watering. Use an orchid plant fertilizer according to label
directions. Skip winter fertilization if temperatures are cooler,
sunlight is limited, and the plants are not putting on new growth.
Improve the environment even more by increasing the humidity around
the plant. Group them with other orchids and indoor plants. As one
plant loses moisture, or “transpires,” the others will benefit from
the increase in humidity. Plus, you’ll create a beautiful display
while improving the growing conditions.
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Or increase the humidity around your plants with
humidity or gravel trays. Place pebbles in the saucer and set the
pot on top of the pebbles. Allow excess water to collect in the
pebbles below the pot. As the water evaporates it increases the
humidity around your plant. It also eliminates the need to pour off
the excess water that collects in the saucer.
You won’t need to repot your orchid for quite a while. Wait to repot
it until it is done blooming, the potting mix has broken down or the
plant becomes pot bound. This is usually about every 18 to 24
months.
Enjoy a second flush of flowers with cool nights and proper
post-flowering care. Leave the flower stem intact and the plant may
produce a second flush of smaller blooms at the tip of the stem. Or
you can cut the flower stem back between the second and third node
from the bottom. For the best rebloom and to allow the plant to
replenish energy spent on flowering, prune the flower stem back to
about one-half inch above the leaves and enjoy a second flush of
flowers in about a year.
And if reblooming your orchid is too much work, treat it like a
long-lasting bouquet. And if you can’t stand to toss or compost it,
give it to an avid gardener. There’s always someone willing to adopt
and try to rebloom your plant.
[Photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com]
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